5.20.2005
My South American Top 5
So I'm finally back in the States after 5.5 weeks in South America: about a week in Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Colombia. It was an incredible trip and I'm glad that my return has coincided with the spring weather here in the Northeast. I got a lot of work done for PiLA and now it's back to the grindstone.
Five Surprising/Interesting Observations:
1) Seeing NGO workers in Bolivia living in beautiful houses in the richest part of La Paz - the Zona Sur. The economic situation in the country is so dire that those who do not work for international agencies - be it NGOs, the World Bank/IMF, etc. - feel compromised about their future. I heard one story of a woman who graduated with a degree in law from the Universidad Catolica (the top university in the country) and started out at one of La Paz's top law firms. She ended up leaving to go to the US where her lack of language expertise will only allow her to seek out low-wage employment. Currently she is in the Virginia suburbs where she is unemployed, but she believes that she has more of a future in the States than she would as a lawyer in Bolivia.
2) I've touched on this before, but I really cannot believe the bargain that is the city of Buenos Aires. Where else in the world can you get so much bang for your buck? Every gringo should be taking their girlfriend on a romantic week in BsAs. Trust me guys, it's Paris at 25% of the cost. The flip side, is of course the dire economic situation which I see the country slowly lifting itself out of.
3) The political instability in La Paz. Every morning thousands of poor indigenous workers en El Alto board minibuses at la Ceja, the loading point for the 15 cent, 30 minute van ride which descends 400 meters into the Plaza San Francisco in the heart of La Paz. The transitory cadence of child workers who shout out the destination of each van blends into the hustle and bustle of El Alto's migrant workforce. The irony is that it is these marginalized individuals that join up in the social movements which paralyze the same city that they uphold, and which - barely - sustains them.
4) The taste of a fresh ceviche in Lima. My Peruvian-American friend and I rushed to the local cevicheria at 11am to make sure that the seafood was fresh out of the water. I especially enjoyed the enormous kernals of fresh corn and the sweet potato on the side. I had never had a ceviche for a main course but it I struggled to finish it off.
5) My last observation is not about South America per se, but of the usual entry point for Latin Americans coming to the US: Miami. I had been to South Florida before, but never in my life did it strike me as vivid and colorful as it did on this visit. From dropping $200 in one night partying on South Beach to witnessing the indulgences of the Latino nouveau riche, the essence of South Florida was captured in one word: excess. Successful Miamians are not afriad to show off their money, be it through clothes, cars, houses, or their latest cosmetic surgery. Coming from the conservative and bashful DC metro area, it was exhilarting to experience the superficial warm-bloodedness of a city that pulsates with energy. Would I want to live there? No. But it was a guilty indulgence as I transitioned from the Northeast to Bolivar's continent.
Five Surprising/Interesting Observations:
1) Seeing NGO workers in Bolivia living in beautiful houses in the richest part of La Paz - the Zona Sur. The economic situation in the country is so dire that those who do not work for international agencies - be it NGOs, the World Bank/IMF, etc. - feel compromised about their future. I heard one story of a woman who graduated with a degree in law from the Universidad Catolica (the top university in the country) and started out at one of La Paz's top law firms. She ended up leaving to go to the US where her lack of language expertise will only allow her to seek out low-wage employment. Currently she is in the Virginia suburbs where she is unemployed, but she believes that she has more of a future in the States than she would as a lawyer in Bolivia.
2) I've touched on this before, but I really cannot believe the bargain that is the city of Buenos Aires. Where else in the world can you get so much bang for your buck? Every gringo should be taking their girlfriend on a romantic week in BsAs. Trust me guys, it's Paris at 25% of the cost. The flip side, is of course the dire economic situation which I see the country slowly lifting itself out of.
3) The political instability in La Paz. Every morning thousands of poor indigenous workers en El Alto board minibuses at la Ceja, the loading point for the 15 cent, 30 minute van ride which descends 400 meters into the Plaza San Francisco in the heart of La Paz. The transitory cadence of child workers who shout out the destination of each van blends into the hustle and bustle of El Alto's migrant workforce. The irony is that it is these marginalized individuals that join up in the social movements which paralyze the same city that they uphold, and which - barely - sustains them.
4) The taste of a fresh ceviche in Lima. My Peruvian-American friend and I rushed to the local cevicheria at 11am to make sure that the seafood was fresh out of the water. I especially enjoyed the enormous kernals of fresh corn and the sweet potato on the side. I had never had a ceviche for a main course but it I struggled to finish it off.
5) My last observation is not about South America per se, but of the usual entry point for Latin Americans coming to the US: Miami. I had been to South Florida before, but never in my life did it strike me as vivid and colorful as it did on this visit. From dropping $200 in one night partying on South Beach to witnessing the indulgences of the Latino nouveau riche, the essence of South Florida was captured in one word: excess. Successful Miamians are not afriad to show off their money, be it through clothes, cars, houses, or their latest cosmetic surgery. Coming from the conservative and bashful DC metro area, it was exhilarting to experience the superficial warm-bloodedness of a city that pulsates with energy. Would I want to live there? No. But it was a guilty indulgence as I transitioned from the Northeast to Bolivar's continent.
# posted by Juanson : 6:30 PM
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Five observations, but you only touch on Argentina, Bolivia, Peru and Miami? Just out of curiosity, where where you in Chile and Colombia? I've spent significant time in both countries and absolutely love both of them.
Boz,
I too have spent significant time in Chile and Colombia - I spent a semester living in Chile during college and I have been to Colombia over a dozen times since most of my relatives live there. This trip, I was mainly in Santiago and Bogota, although I did head down to Girardot which is about 120 km southwest of Bogota. In Colombia, I have not seen too much - only Cartagena, Santa Marta, Barranquilla, Bogota and the outlying areas (the North and SW) as well as coffee country. In Chile I have been from Santiago down to Patagonia, but I have not yet explored the North. My grandmother was actually born in Chile and met my grandfather there, so I feel a strong connection to both countries.
I too have spent significant time in Chile and Colombia - I spent a semester living in Chile during college and I have been to Colombia over a dozen times since most of my relatives live there. This trip, I was mainly in Santiago and Bogota, although I did head down to Girardot which is about 120 km southwest of Bogota. In Colombia, I have not seen too much - only Cartagena, Santa Marta, Barranquilla, Bogota and the outlying areas (the North and SW) as well as coffee country. In Chile I have been from Santiago down to Patagonia, but I have not yet explored the North. My grandmother was actually born in Chile and met my grandfather there, so I feel a strong connection to both countries.
Christian,
I enjoyed reading your post. But I think it is a shame that you did not visit Brazil. I don't think you can have a "South American trip" without visiting Brazil. It is like having a "North American trip" without visiting the United States.
Most people who know little of Latin America see Brazil as just one country among many in the region. But Brazil is larger in land size and population than more than half of all the Spanish-speaking Latin American nations combined. And today I would argue that Brazil’s global importance is much greater than half of the rest of Latin America combined. In fact, Brazil stands as Latin America’s only global power. Finally, the majority of South Americans (52%) speak Portuguese.
So, it is not just another country; it is quite literally more than half of a continent. Something interesting: because of Brazil, many more people speak Portuguese than French today in the world. French doesn’t even make the list of the top ten spoken languages any more. Portuguese is an emerging language solely because of Brazil. If it were only spoken in Portugal and Angola, it would be akin to Dutch or Catalan. But Brazil makes Portuguese a relevant language in the world.
With that said, I have a few questions: Does PILA prefer to focus on Spanish America instead of Brazil and Haiti? If so, why? I noticed that the majority of PILA fellows (with the important exception of two people) were placed in Spanish America – is this due to their preference or PILA policy? Have you found Princeton Latin Americanists to be ignorant about Brazil? (I found most Cornell Latin Americanists to be Spanish-America-centric, and not knowledgeable about Brazil.)
I enjoyed reading your post. But I think it is a shame that you did not visit Brazil. I don't think you can have a "South American trip" without visiting Brazil. It is like having a "North American trip" without visiting the United States.
Most people who know little of Latin America see Brazil as just one country among many in the region. But Brazil is larger in land size and population than more than half of all the Spanish-speaking Latin American nations combined. And today I would argue that Brazil’s global importance is much greater than half of the rest of Latin America combined. In fact, Brazil stands as Latin America’s only global power. Finally, the majority of South Americans (52%) speak Portuguese.
So, it is not just another country; it is quite literally more than half of a continent. Something interesting: because of Brazil, many more people speak Portuguese than French today in the world. French doesn’t even make the list of the top ten spoken languages any more. Portuguese is an emerging language solely because of Brazil. If it were only spoken in Portugal and Angola, it would be akin to Dutch or Catalan. But Brazil makes Portuguese a relevant language in the world.
With that said, I have a few questions: Does PILA prefer to focus on Spanish America instead of Brazil and Haiti? If so, why? I noticed that the majority of PILA fellows (with the important exception of two people) were placed in Spanish America – is this due to their preference or PILA policy? Have you found Princeton Latin Americanists to be ignorant about Brazil? (I found most Cornell Latin Americanists to be Spanish-America-centric, and not knowledgeable about Brazil.)
I studied at U Catolica in Santiago in the first half of 2000. Also took the famous "history of rock music" at U Chile while I was down there. I've traveled Chile basicaly from Arica at the northern tip down to Puerto Montt. Never made it to the very south, because I chose to spend time in Argentina, where I have a million relatives.
Colombia for me has just been Bogota and Cartagena, but I've been to Bogota on several occassions and really like the city.
It's a real shame I've never made it to Brazil. Hope to go there some day.
Colombia for me has just been Bogota and Cartagena, but I've been to Bogota on several occassions and really like the city.
It's a real shame I've never made it to Brazil. Hope to go there some day.
Vikrum,
By no means did I consider my trip to be comprehensive. As you know, I have been fascinated by Brazil since I went to Chile and lived two doors down from a Brazilian who took every good thing I said about Chile and added, "if you think this is good, it's ten times better in Brazil..."
The reason I ended up sticking to "Spanish South America" on my trip was that I could have made it up to parts of Brazil for a week or 10 days. However, I decided that it would be too cruel - both for my rusty Portuguese and to only get a taste and then have to leave. My plan, after doing Central America for 3.5 weeks, is to do a two month trip to Brazil where I can spend the first couple of weeks refreshing my Portuguese and then spend 6 weeks seeing as much as possible, and meeting with potential partner organizations.
The fact that we have not had a legitimate partner organization in Brazil is mostly historical accident. In fact, Princeton's Latin American Studies department is quite strong in Brazil. About half of students that apply to PiLA have studied Portuguese in addition to Spanish and many of them ask me if there are positions available in Brazil.
So to sum up, while I disagree with your point that going to South America without visiting Brazil is comparable to going to North America and not seeing the US, do not underestimate PiLA, Princeton, and my personal interest in the country.
By no means did I consider my trip to be comprehensive. As you know, I have been fascinated by Brazil since I went to Chile and lived two doors down from a Brazilian who took every good thing I said about Chile and added, "if you think this is good, it's ten times better in Brazil..."
The reason I ended up sticking to "Spanish South America" on my trip was that I could have made it up to parts of Brazil for a week or 10 days. However, I decided that it would be too cruel - both for my rusty Portuguese and to only get a taste and then have to leave. My plan, after doing Central America for 3.5 weeks, is to do a two month trip to Brazil where I can spend the first couple of weeks refreshing my Portuguese and then spend 6 weeks seeing as much as possible, and meeting with potential partner organizations.
The fact that we have not had a legitimate partner organization in Brazil is mostly historical accident. In fact, Princeton's Latin American Studies department is quite strong in Brazil. About half of students that apply to PiLA have studied Portuguese in addition to Spanish and many of them ask me if there are positions available in Brazil.
So to sum up, while I disagree with your point that going to South America without visiting Brazil is comparable to going to North America and not seeing the US, do not underestimate PiLA, Princeton, and my personal interest in the country.
Also - we are adding a position in Haiti for next year. I think that Haiti is really the tragedy in the region.
I love South America, although I do not see anything close to a South American Union coming into existence anytime soon. Even with left-of-center governments in most of the continent, there is little cooperation among countries. As long as there are real conflicts like Bolivia vs. Chile, Chile vs. Peru and the emerging Venezuela vs. Colombia, I still think it's everyone for themselves.
Querido Christian,
Que lindo leer tu blog.
Dime, que te gusto mas: el pisco de Chile o el de Peru?
Yo todavia no he probado ningun licor que sea tan rico como el guaro tico.
Pura Vida,
Yamileth
Que lindo leer tu blog.
Dime, que te gusto mas: el pisco de Chile o el de Peru?
Yo todavia no he probado ningun licor que sea tan rico como el guaro tico.
Pura Vida,
Yamileth
Hi,
I'm sorry for being intrusive in to your blog. But I am Melissa and I am a mother of two that is just trying to get out of an incredible financial debt. See my hubby is away in Iraq trying to protect this great country that we live in, and I am at home with our two kids telling bill collectors please be patiant. When my husband returns from war we will beable to catch up on our payments. We have already had are 2001 Ford repossessed from the bank, and are now down to a 83 buick that is rusted from front to back and the heater don't work, and tire tax is due in November.
I'm not asking for your pitty because we got our ownselfs into this mess but we would love you and thank you in our prayers if you would just keep this link on your blog for others to view.
God Bless You.
Melissa K. W.
To see my family view this page. My Family
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I'm sorry for being intrusive in to your blog. But I am Melissa and I am a mother of two that is just trying to get out of an incredible financial debt. See my hubby is away in Iraq trying to protect this great country that we live in, and I am at home with our two kids telling bill collectors please be patiant. When my husband returns from war we will beable to catch up on our payments. We have already had are 2001 Ford repossessed from the bank, and are now down to a 83 buick that is rusted from front to back and the heater don't work, and tire tax is due in November.
I'm not asking for your pitty because we got our ownselfs into this mess but we would love you and thank you in our prayers if you would just keep this link on your blog for others to view.
God Bless You.
Melissa K. W.
To see my family view this page. My Family
Windows registry scanner - scans your Windows registry for errors and suggests solutions.
Paid surveys - Work at home, Get Paid For Your Opinion, paid surveys and online focus groups.
Combine AdWords and ClickBank for Huge Online Profits Words Great With Blogs
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